From the editors
FOREWORD

DESTINATION
Aleksandr Sologubov
CULTURE IN A "FOREIGN" SPACE: AN INTRODUCTION
Ivan Chechot
TO GENIUS LOCI KALININGRAD AND KOENIGSBERG
Wolfgang Eichwede
KALININGRAD IN THE YEAR 2020 - A NOT QUITE FICTITIOUS CONVERSATION
Aleksandr Sologubov
DESTINATION - KALININGRAD

PHRASE BOOK
Aleksandr Sologubov
FROM KALININGRAD DICTIONARY

MAP OF THE CITY
Anatolii Bakhtin
UGLY KOENIGSBERG
Elena Gladkova
FORMA URBIS. SYMBOLIC PARALLELS
Valery Orlov
IN OR OUT

SOUTHERN STATION
Ivan Chechot
THE RAILWAY STATION AND ENTRANCE TO THE CITY OF KALININGRAD

CROSSROADS
Aleksandr Popadin
BINARY STATES OF "K" CITY
Eugeny Umansky, Karpenko-Karpenko
KATYANASTYA

IN THE CENTER
Andrei Monastyrsky, Sabina Haensgen
EMPTY CENTER K.
Pavel Nastin
COURTYARD-WELL

COMMUNICATIONS
Artem Advokat
GRAFFITI
Elena Tsvetaeva
FOLK GRAFFITI
Marek Wolodzko
FOLLOWING SILENT WORDS
FA+ (Ingrid Falk & Gustavo Aguerre)
THE MYTHICAL FOUNDATION OF KALININGRAD
Aleksandr Sologubov
MICROTOPONYMY

PRETERITION: KNEIPHOF ISLAND
Aleksandr Sologubov
THE CATHEDRAL
Aleksandr Popadin
ERECTING BRIDGES
Ivan Chechot
THE BRIDGES AND "THE PREGEL'S ODOR"
John Craig Freeman, Greg Ulmer
IMAGING KALININGRAD: THE SEVEN BRIGES OF KOENIGSBERG

STOA KANTIANA
Anatolii Bakhtin
FORGOTTEN KANT AND THE KANT-BRAND IN KOENIGSBERG
Aleksandr Sologubov
KANT
Olga Lopukhova
KANT'S TOMB
Erika Wolf
KANT'S BRIDES: A READYMADE PHOTOGRAPHIC CHRONOTOPE
Ivan Chechot
THE CATHEDRAL AND KANT FOR EVERYONE, OR IS GOD FEARSOME WITHOUT MORAL

THE CASTLE OF SOVIETS
Aleksandr Sologubov
THE ROYAL CASTLE
Igor Sacharov-Ross
WINE CELLAR
Dali Rust
A WHITE SEAGULL ABOVE THE CITY: THE SYMBOLS OF THE OLD NEW CITY
Joanna Sandell
WRITING OF DREAMS
RAKETA
LIGHT UP DOM SOVETOV
Aleksandr Sologubov
THE HOUSE OF SOVIETS

GERMANS
Ilya Dementiev
THE MOST PROFOUND SECRET OF ONE KOENIGSBERG LAWYER: HOFFMANN
KudaBegutSobaki
A LEGEND ABOUT FIVE LITTLE ULRICHEN AND FERRYMAN ANDRE

Peter Wunsch
KOENIGSBERG-KALININGRAD. THE TASTE OF MARZIPAN
Aleksandr Sologubov
THE COUNTRY OF PENSIONERS - OR THE GERMANS
Martin Huettel
QWERTZ

MOSCOW PERSPECTIVE
Olga Sezneva
CONCRETE ELEMENTS OF KALININGRAD
Agnieszka Wolodzko
HABITATION UNITS
Werner Moeller
THE UNDREAMED OF CITY
Oleg Vasiutin
TOWN PLANNING MATHEMATICS
Mark Borozna
MOSKOVSKII PROSPECT & THE SHADOWS AROUND ALTSTADT

OUR TOWER Ivan Chechot
KRONPRINZ
Elena Tsvetaeva
THE TOWER-REDAN "KRONPRINZ"
THE KRONPRINZ TOWER. Projects for the National Centre for Contemporary Arts by Students of the Institute for Theory and Design in Architecture (Braunschweig, Germany)
OUR PRIDE
Aleksandr Sologubov
AMBER
Aleksandr Sologubov
ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES
Ivan Chechot
THE AMBER ROOM

BASTIONS
Avenir Ovsyanov
BASTIONS IN DIAMONDS AND EMERALDS
Rostan Tavasiev
LITTLE BRICKS

THE MARKET
Ivan Chechot
THE HOUSE OF MACHINERY: THE RECONSTRACTION AND EXPLOITATION OF THE POPULATION

V.I.P. (Very Interesting Person)
Elena Tsvetaeva
SERGEI TIMOFEEVICH

PLACE OF EXECUTION
Bert Hoppe
TRACES OF A VIRTUAL HISTORY IN A VERY REAL CITY

CSC ROC
Aleksandr Sologubov
CHRIST THE SAVIOR CATHEDRAL

TRAM
Aleksandr Sologubov
LIFE AND EGGS (A sketch about trams)
SKART
LUCKY TICKET

MEETING POINT
Aleksandr Popadin
THE BULLS
Ivan Chechot
GAUL'S FOUNTAIN
Ivan Chechot
A STROLL THROUGH THE CENTER
Aleksandr Popadin
IN THE FLOW: FOUNTAIN SEASON
Aleksandr Popadin
NINE
Elena Tsygankova
WILD WEST OF RUSSIA

THE ZOO
Irina Kozhevnikova
ZOO
Ingeborg Strobl
ANIMALS IN KALININGRAD AND A MOSAIC
Elena Tsvetaeva
KOENIGSBERG CATS

MEMENTO MORE
Avenir Ovsianov
KOENIGSBERG'S SPIRITUAL HERITAGE IN TONS, ITEMS AND SACKS. From the history of lost and found cultural heritage
Aleksandr Sologubov
KALININ PARK
Aleksandr Popadin
WE ALL ARE GOING TO BE THERE
Aleksandr Sologubov
MONUMENTS
Irina Kozhevnikova
MONUMENT TO 1200 GUARDSMEN IN KALININGRAD
Roger Palmer
BRIEF MEMORIALS

MATTER AND SPIRIT
Aleksandr Sologubov
MYSTICISM
Aleksandr Popadin
FRAGMENT OF A SYMPHONY FOR SLOW READING: IVANOV AND HIS SURROUNDINGS
Evgenii Umanskii
ATTIC OF RECOGNITION
Aleksandr Sologubov
STOVES
Dmitrii Vyshemirskii
MAN AND WOMAN
Lana Vyshemirskaya
THE SMALL SCULPTURE "GIRL"

ON THE STREET
Evgenii Umanskii
CHANUKAH
Aleksandr Popadin
CUBIC PAVEMENT
Igor Isaev, Dmitrii Demidenko
SEWER HATCHES
Aleksandr Popadin
THE FIRE HYDRANT
Irina Kozhevnikova
TRADITIONS
Kalle Brolin, Kristina Muntzing
POTENTIAL PLACE

Aleksandr Popadin
THE WATERFALL HERACLES' BOLT

V.I.P. (Very Interesting Person)
Manuela
NATASHA POTERYASHINA. Inteview

ATMOSPHERE
Aleksandr Sologubov
TO BE IN THE MOOD FOR PACKING
Aleksandr Popadin
ALL-WEATHER KALININGRADIANS
Dmitrii Bulatov, Pavel Savel'ev
ACEPHALUS: OPTICAL MODELS
Mark Borozna
LIGHT THE CRYSTALS OF KALININGRAD!

THE HARBOR
Evgenii Kazannik
PORT
Aleksandr Ponomarev
THE GATES

SUBURBS
Avenir Ovsyanov
THE BRIDGE THAT THE "RUSSIANS COULDN'T PULL DOWN"
Elena Tsvetaeva
THE ROAD TO BERLIN: FROM EPIC TO BANAL. Interview with Valerii Bugrov
Aleksandr Popadin
HOAR-STONES AND BOUNDARY SYMBOLS
Aleksandr Popadin
MUSCOVITES ARE HANGING
Anders Kreuger
BEFORE THE CITY



CULTURE IN A "FOREIGN" SPACE: AN INTRODUCTION


Aleksandr Sologubov / Kaliningrad, Russia


http://www.Koenigsberg.de/ "They could be revanchists!" you might say. No, it's just the ordinary website of an ordinary Bavarian burgh." A romantic Frankish town, looking like a picture from a book, "an architecture ensemble of European rank" that has not yet been inundated by tourists… "It's a place for heightened feelings and respite, where ribwort can still find its way through the spaces in stone paving, where grape trellises climb up the facades of thoroughly restored houses and a well on a market square nestles under shady chestnuts…" Nothing to boast about! That Koenigsberg can only be proud of the fact that it is the birthplace of Regiomontan, a mathematician esteemed to a fairly limited circle.

http://www.korolev.ru "Ah-ah," you may say, "this is the former Kaliningrad (situated near Moscow), which became Korolev in 1996." "The center of rocket-space engineering, a leader of our progressive science… a city of science … 161,000 people … approximately 67% of the population has higher or specialized secondary education… it has been considered the most developed city in Russia and the Moscow region, and in accordance with overall results from the year 2000 it is regarded as one of the 20 best cities in Europe." I wonder how many people wear eyeglasses there. Ordinary provincial towns. They keep up with the Joneses, but nobody knows about them.

And what about us? http:///.www.Koenigsberg.ru/, http:///www.kaliningrad.ru/, http://www.klg.ru, http://www.klgd.ru, http://www.koenig.su/, http://koenig.ru and many others. Despite the variety of sites, they are all more or less the same: Formerly Prussian Koenigsberg, Kant's homeland, the location of major battles of World War II, a big international port, the Russian outpost of the Baltic Sea region, separated from the its mainland by many kilometers of foreign lands", and, finally, the amber storeroom of our Motherland… Our Kaliningrad is a best-selling brand. Yet when I was in a small Polish village and said that I came from Kaliningrad, former Koenigsberg, my interlocutor - a retired book-keeper - asked me whether it was a kingdom and where it was located.

Thus, a name is meaningless if there is nothing to it. Who is interested in these Koenigsbergs and Korolevs!? But this Russian regional center, attached to Lithuania and Poland by the Baltic Sea, is of interest to everyone. The salt of this interest is the territory itself. The territory has continuously passed from hand to hand. Kaliningrad is exemplary of the great variety of cases when a culture has found itself in a "foreign" space. But to tell the truth, this case is quite special due to a variety of features concentrated in a single place.

Firstly, the origin of Kaliningrad does not lie in some ancient conquest. Rather, it is almost contemporary.

Then, there is the high population density (especially when compared to the Kuril Islands!). And it was inhabited not by neighbors who had long propped up the border, waiting for a convenient opportunity, but by absolute strangers who arrived from far away. There are numerous of places of origin and hundreds of nationalities amongst the local population. It is, hence, an absolutely different culture.

How does culture act in a "foreign" space? What are the cultural practices of its assimilation? That is, what are the specific means of activity of a people belonging to one cultural commonality when facing the material and symbolic development of a territory inhabited by them? The range of practices is wide: from agricultural techniques to the settlement of the area to the writing of history and naming of places. The French structuralist Roland Barthes defined "logosphere" as the unity of ideas and words of one culture. Using his term, one can define the "logosphere of Kaliningrad" as the unity of ideas and words specifying this place on the Earth. If pronounced sounds didn't disappear instantly in the air, but existed for ten or fifteen years, Kaliningrad would be buzzing with all that had been uttered during this period. With all that has gone on, the most frequently used words would also be of the most diverse nature. Let's listen to this buzzing for a minute: Germans, Regermanization, Russians, outpost, Prussia, Russia, Koenigsberg, storm, Kaliningrad, amber, Motherland, strange land, Kant, Peter, port, visas, vodka, zone…

Today's Kaliningrad is an exceptional place for the thoughtful tourist, who is sincerely interested in culture and not just seeking something extraordinary or entertaining. Even if it is not always beautiful, comfortable, easy, cheap, safe, clean, quickly, tasty, or pleasant here…

What is it possible to interest oneself in here? It is a contemporary existing, live laboratory.

Be active! Don't shuffle behind a boring guide. Drop in on artists and then you will know that "the originality of Kaliningrad citizens' creativity has been passed over in silence for a long period of time…whispered tales of old castles and the mystery of ruins evolved an absolutely different culture, and wonderful canvases appeared - transparent and deep, with images of the old city shining through new buildings, and fantastic plots drive you away to other dimension…"

Buy a paint pot from members of the National Bolshevik Party and write on a wall: "Kaliningrad is a Russian city!"

Explore bookshops. You will learn that "Kaliningradians are kind and Light-Hearted; Inventive Name-Children in Native land Gathering Russian Acclimatized Demos into Amber Northwest Safety Island".

Try to cross any border in an old Lada automobile with two bottles of "Velikoe Posolstvo" (Great Embassy) and a cigarette packet in the back seat of your car: "Gdzie Pan jedziesz I co Pan wieziesz?" That will thrill you.

Buy a bottle of "Kafedralnii Sobor" (Cathedral Church) and share it among the ancient walls, sniffing the river air. But don't show excessive zeal!

Lend an ear to conversations, don't ignore advertisements or teenagers' wall creations, take a tram on narrow metal tracks (for the time being there are still trams and metal tracks in Kaliningrad).

Follow our guide. It will help you to get to know the city.

One more thing. I write, perusing the texts of the guide, and my computer grows red and green in disapproval. But this book is about a living city, so some neologisms and jargon are acceptable.


Translation by N. Shtock


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